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The chef Rowley Leigh once pulled his grumpiest bloodhound face and said, “I can’t stand foraging.” This is not an alien sentiment to me. I make a distinction between going blackberrying, say, or finding some nice mushrooms/wild garlic/samphire for dinner, and filling a plate with odd bits of bark, orange berries and brackish moss which you claim to be rare and fabulous delicacies rather than something you might be forced to live on if marooned on a remote island as part of an SAS survival exercise.

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